In autumn, a woman canoes down the River Ognon with a cow watching in the background - Ognon Valley — ©Canoeing on the Ognon|Refuse To Hibernate

Canoeing adventure Over several days

Just one day’s canoeing on the River Ognon isn’t enough for you? Are you looking for thrills, an itinerant holiday close to nature, a real sporting challenge or just a complete break from it all? Then this river will be your ideal playground. Its peaceful waters lend themselves perfectly to multi-day descents, paddling from stage to stage.

A dedicated guide will help you prepare for your trip. It details the different stages of the itinerary, alerts you to technical passages and shows you the must-see sites to visit along the way. With this invaluable companion, all you have to do is let yourself be carried along by the rhythm of the Ognon.

We’ve selected 4 stages that will make your mouth water.

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On the road to adventure!

Downstream from the Plein Air et Nautisme base in Villersexel, you’ll find a launching point. Before that, a diversion to the Château is highly recommended. This Louis XIII-style castle was built in record time between 1882 and 1887. Rented out for weddings or receptions, it is possible to stay there for one night. Twelve kilometres separate Villersexel from Bonnal, an overnight stop with its campsite. Along the way, the pebble beach near Autrey-le-Vay is the ideal place to recharge your batteries.

A couple canoeing on the Ognon - Ognon Valley — ©Canoeing on the Ognon|PAN Villersexel

The following day, there are seventeen kilometres to cover between Bonnal and Montbozon. Montbozon is not lacking in character either. Made of sandstone and listed as a historic monument since 1977, the Swan Fountain was built by architect Louis Moreau in 1828. Legend has it that Napoleon III made his horse drink from it during the Prussian campaign of 1870-1871. Another must-see during your stopover is the Maison des Jésuites. This fortified house was built in 1567 and handed over to the Jesuits in 1602. In addition to its interior courtyard with a Renaissance façade, the building has a curious feature: its wall of crucifixes.

A practical guide To organise your itinerary

The Vallée de l’Ognon canoe guide will be an invaluable ally on your journey down the Ognon. This free guide, available from tourist offices, provides a detailed description in 11 stages.

But this guide is much more than just a nautical road book. It’s also an opportunity to immerse yourself in the riches of the Ognon Valley. History, nature, gastronomy, outdoor activities… It’s all just a paddle away! You’ll be able to visit heritage sites, stroll along trails and meet passionate local producers. All this while never being far from the bucolic banks of the river Ognon.

The canoe guide

A family paddles down the Ognon in a canoe. They are wearing lifejackets - Vallée de l'Ognon — ©Canoeing on the Ognon|PAN Villersexel

A journey With a host of surprises in store

From Cirey-lès-Bellevaux to Cromary

Just under twelve kilometres separate Cirey-lès-Bellevaux from Cromary via the river Ognon. Now privately owned, Notre-Dame de Bellevaux Abbey was the first Cistercian abbey in Franche-Comté. After passing through the Moncey dam halfway along the route, you will sail under the bridge of the same name. Leaning against the side of a slight hill on the right bank that marks the boundary with the Doubs, the pretty village of Cromary had two of its buildings listed as Historic Monuments a few years ago.

From Voray-sur-l’Ognon to Cussey-sur-l’Ognon

Between the two towns, twelve kilometres of navigation in an idyllic setting. In Voray-sur-l’Ognon, to say that canoeing is a religion would be an understatement. Marlène Devillez, European freestyle kayak champion in 2012 and 2014 and vice-world champion in 2019, is a native of the commune and grew up just a stone’s throw from the water sports centre. Her father was president of the local club. The young woman has made environmental protection her hobbyhorse. A hydrogeologist by training, she has made a documentary with her partner Nicolas Caussanel, European extreme kayaking champion, entitled “Rivers: sentinels of climate change”. A listed historic monument, the Church of the Assumption is well worth a look before you set off in the direction of Cussey-sur l’Ognon.

A family (a father and his two children) paddling a canoe on the River Ognon in bright sunshine - Ognon Valley — ©Canoeing on the Ognon|Jean-Francois Maillot

Canoeing on the river Ognon from the PAN water sports centre in Villersexel — ©Canoeing on the Ognon|Charlotte Mosca

Three dams, two of them with barriers, will stand in your way. For the third, at the start of the route and near Chevroz, you will have to “carry” your boat. Once you reach Cussey-sur-l’Ognon, it’s impossible to miss the old wash-house. It is located right next to the church of Saint-André, built in 1941. For a long time, this old wash-house was used as the town hall.

How to Crossing a dam

This is the main obstacle you will encounter on the Ognon. There are several ways of crossing a dam. Most of the time, it’s dictated by the nature of the dam.

Jumping

Once you have checked that there is no abseil at the foot of the dam, you can “jump” it with your boat. Make sure your boat is in the right direction and let yourself slide down the weir. If the vertical weir is more than fifty centimetres high, we advise against this technique.

Portage

If the jump method is not possible, return to the shore and slide your boat ashore. Put it back in the water once you are well downstream of the dam to avoid being sucked down by the abseil.

The slides

Many dams are now equipped with slides. These “slides” make it easy to cross dams. However, make sure that nothing obstructs the passage and don’t leave your paddles lying around. Raise them high in the air!

A long journey from Marnay to Pesmes

It will take two to three days to get from Marnay to Pesmes. The two towns are twenty-nine kilometres apart via the river Ognon. A longer stopover in Marnay is highly recommended, first and foremost for its campsite. In addition to its classic pitches, it offers some unusual experiences: two lodges on the river bank and one opposite the swimming pool. Then there’s the leisure centre, which offers a wide range of canoe, kayak and paddles for hire. There is also a tree top course for children up to the age of twelve. Finally, if you’re not afraid of thrills, there’s a hundred and twenty metre zip line for a breathtaking view of the river Ognon.

Visit Marnay

Arrival at Pesmes

At the end of your journey, Pesmes and its magnificent setting will quickly erase any aches and pains. One of the “most beautiful villages in France”, Pesmes offers a maze of narrow streets and squares where it’s good to get lost. This medieval town was once a strategic location on the road from Gray to Dole. Along the banks of the river Ognon, winegrowers’ houses and the residences of notables are a reminder of the rich winegrowing past of this village of around a thousand inhabitants. All these assets have made it one of the top tourist destinations in Haute-Saône. No fewer than ten of its buildings are protected as historic monuments.

Time stretches out to better appreciate each moment of tranquillity. Who knows what surprises the river Ognon has in store for you? It’s up to you to discover them!

Visit Pesmes

A canoeist paddles on the river Ognon, at the foot of the town of Pesmes - Ognon Valley, Haute-Saône — ©Canoeing in Pesmes|Office de tourisme du Val de Gray

A group of mountain bikers consult the VTT Off-Saône guidebook to plan their route through the Monts de Gy - Vallée de l'Ognon. — ©Mountain biking in the Monts de Gy|Pierre Pauquay

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Places to see along the Ognon